The regional capital and the most Muslim-feeling big city in China. Uyghur, Hui and Kazakh kitchens everywhere, the call to prayer audible across whole districts, and the Tian Shan snow range visible from the airport road.
Xinjiang Regional Museum — The Tarim Basin mummy galleries and the Silk Road collection. Free, air-conditioned, and a good indoor hour between Dhuhr and Asr.
Erdaoqiao bazaar — A sprawling market of dried fruit, nuts, spices, fabrics and copperwork, with a halal food hall upstairs where the whole family can eat together.
Tian Shan Heavenly Lake — A mountain lake two hours east at 1,900 m, with spruce forest, Kazakh yurts and snow peaks behind it.
Uyghur polo rice pilaf, lagman noodles, lamb skewers over charcoal, naan from the tandoor, and samosas out of the oven. Melon and grape season runs from July to October.
Yanghang Mosque — Central Urumqi, large and active, with wudhu facilities. Jumuah is the easiest of any city on this site.
Urumqi Diwopu (URC), 20 minutes from the centre. Direct flights from Beijing, Xian, Chengdu, Guangzhou and Shanghai.